Volnay, Domaine Fernand et Laurent Pillot 2017
Laurent is the fifth generation of grape growers at this star domaine, based in Chassagne-Montrachet, and (when not flying his microlight or hunting with hawks) now manages its 15 hectares of vineyards spread across 22 different appellations. More recently he has been joined by his son Adrien who has trained at top estates in South Africa, New Zealand and Oregon. The meticulous Laurent favours low yields and as little intervention as possible in both the vineyards, which are run more or less organically, and the cellar. His red wines, which are now invariably from 100% destemmed grapes, are ripe, succulent and supremely elegant, especially the velvety and surprisingly generous Volnay.