Rioja 'Xerico', Tentenublo 2017
Roberto Olivan is a leading name among the new generation of young Rioja winemakers and produces a range of quite modern style wines in the high-altitude Lanciego district, beneath the Sierra Cantabria mountains, where he's acquired a number of small vineyard plots to add to those already owned by the family. Unusually, this has a sizable portion of the white variety Viura in the blend, is made without any oak, and bears little resemblance to typical mass-market Rioja: this is intense, deep and brooding, slightly smoky with bright cherry and plum fruit and lots of structure, including some hefty tannin, so decanting (and patience) is recommended but very much worth the effort. An impressive wine.
85% Tempranillo & 15% Viura
Rioja Alavesa, Spain